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GLOBAL ONE – Integration. Innovation. Quality.

January 15, 2016 - LASERTEC & ULTRASONIC News 01.2016

Laser engraving and texturing for the jewellery industry

The traditional company Boutroué from Paris is an absolute laser specialist when it comes to sophisticated engraving, texturing and cutting tasks for the production of watch parts and luxury accessories

Laurent Savonneau (on the right), managing director of Boutroué, with application technicians standing by the LASERTEC 45 Shape that was installed in 2015

Boutroué produces the clasp of a handbag on the LASERTEC 45 Shape three-times faster than the competition.

With a history stretching back to the year 1885, Boutroué stands for tradition in the creation of watch / jewellery components and embossed stamps for the production of luxury goods. Only 9 employees are needed at the Paris site to reliably fulfil orders from nearly all big french labels in this branch. Boutroué also trusts in the highly innovative laser machining technologies from DMG MORI in its state-of-the-art production. The LASERTEC 45 Shape, LASERTEC 40 PikoShape and LASERTEC 20 FineCutting machines developed by SAUER are used here.

Luxury labels of the haute couture come under enormous time pressure to have their products ready in good time in the run-up to the great fashion shows. As a supplier active in this branch Boutroué is also confronted with the challenge of supplying the prestigious Parisian fashion houses with products such as fine clasps for handbags or watch accessories more or less at the drop of a hat. The managing director Laurent Savonneau gives us an idea of what is called for: “On the one hand short response times and flexibility are a must, while on the other we still have to meet the demands of our customers with regard to the unquestionable quality and precision of the goods.”

In contrast to wire eroding machines, the 5-axis LASERTEC 20 FineCutting machine can even produce highly complex and filigree components such as this part of a belt buckle.

Boutroué produces embossed stamps from carbide with the LASERTEC 40 Shape (Pico).

The origins of Boutroué lie in engraving and even today this remains the passion of Laurent Savonneau. He is regarded, for example, as an expert in the customising of prestigious watches. Together with a partner bases, clock faces, lunettes as well as 3D-textured wristbands and watch plates. Engraving also plays a key role in its other day-to-day business, which is why Laurent Savonneau intends to expand this field with the aid of laser technology from DMG MORI: “Once our customers have become better acquainted with the technology and the possibilities it offers, there will be great potential for opening up new markets.”

In September 2015 Boutroué replaced the first LASERTEC 40 Shape (Pico) that it had purchased back in the year 2006, with the latest generation LASERTEC 40 Shape in the new design and equipped with a picosecond laser. In addition the company also installed a LASERTEC 20 FineCutting machine as an alternative to wire eroding plus a LASERTEC 45 Shape with 5-axis machine kinematics and a 20-W fibre laser. “In terms of our sales these purchases constituted large investments, but the they also reflect the great trust we place in the future-orientated 5-axis laser technology from DMG MORI”, explains Laurent Savonneau. Numerous application examples and the first specific enquiries confirm they have made the right decision: “Thanks to the competent support provided by SAUER we were able to produce a handbag clasp resembling fibreglass as per customer sample three-times faster than the competition.” In particular the simple, user-friendly programming of the LASERTEC 45 Shape was a key reason for this success.

In contrast to wire eroding machines, the 5-axis LASERTEC 20 FineCutting machine can even produce highly complex and filigree components such as this part of a belt buckle.

The daily business at Boutroué is characterised by a diverse range of products.

In view of their flexibility and speed Laurent Savonneau sees the LASERTEC machines as the perfect solution for his manufacturing processes: “We survive by being able to respond quickly and flexibly to customer enquiries.” As the afore-mentioned example indicates, the question of software is also gaining in importance. “The operational sequence from the two-dimensional template to three-dimensional texturing used to date can be further optimised allowing us to save even more time here.”

Laurent Savonneau sees the LASERTEC 20 FineCutting machine as an expansion of wire eroding. Here again the focus is on the high speed of the machine, and even more on its machining flexibility: “Complex workpieces such as the filigree parts of belt buckles cannot be produced at all on a wire eroding machine.” But it can be accomplished extremely economically on the 5-axis LASERTEC 20 FineCutting machine in combination with the LASERTEC 45 Shape. The LASERTEC 40 Shape with its picosecond laser comes into its own at Boutroué where carbide machining is concerned. “We produced embossed stamps very successfully with the predecessor model. The new machine will certainly carry on in its footsteps”, says Laurent Savonneau.

And if you think Boutroué intends to simply sit back after its investment in three high-tech machines from DMG MORI, then you are greatly mistaken. Its willingness to invest is as high as ever and goes hand-in-hand with the continuous growth in the luxury goods segment. Laurent Savonneau is now looking at technologies other than laser machining: “The dynamics and precision of the compact 2nd generation HSC 20 linear could help boost our production and process chain with the LASERTEC models even further in future.”

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